Backpacking

I arrived in Monchau battered and exhausted, but unwilling to leave without exploring. What I found was a town straight out of a storybook—and a zero day that rested my feet, lifted my spirit, and reminded me why I hadn’t quit.

Day three started with exhaustion and a defeated sigh, climbed quickly into pure bliss, and then unraveled in the kind of way only long trail days can. Somewhere between borders, hailstorms, and a muddy hillside, I learned just how thin the line is between strength and surrender—and how powerful unexpected kindness can be.

Ever heard of PUDs? Pointless Ups and Downs—those soul-sucking stretches of trail that climb steeply, drop mercilessly, and reward you with… absolutely nothing. No view. No payoff. Just burning lungs, screaming quads, and regret. Welcome to Day Two on the Eifelsteig.

What followed was a relentless cycle of brutal climbs, knee-crushing descents, hailstorms, wrong turns, and a campground that was definitely not “right off the trail.” Add a 70-pound pack that somehow kept getting heavier, a tent pitched in a rain-fed stream, and a growing appreciation for the phrase Du bist müde. Exhausted, soaked, and still stubbornly moving forward, this day was a masterclass in perseverance—proof that even the roughest trail days can end with coffee, oatmeal, and just enough optimism to lace up again.

The Eifelsteig Saga - Part One When I was young, I loved backpacking. I was sure that I was going to be a “Professional Backpacker” when I grew up - whatever that means. Of course, that’s not how it turned out. I married someone who hates the outdoors, had a family,...